January
Tulliana is currently still in Tenerife while we have returned to the UK to earn some more cruising tokens. All I can say is it's bloody cold here at -8 deg C and we both wish we were back on board. The current plans are to return in early Feb when we will move to Las Palmas to get some warranty work done at the boatyard there.
February
Hi all, happy New Year! Well the day had come to go back to see how Tulliana was. We had another early flight from East Midlands Airport in the freezing cold. The most difficult part this time was getting the weight right in our luggage bearing in mind all the ‘boaty’ stuff we had to take with us and only 15kgs each allowed. Needless to say all I was allowed to take was a couple of pairs of pants! We had another good flight apart from being ripped off for a couple of drinks and Ryan Air trying to sell you something every 2 minutes but at least we didn’t have to pay to spend a penny! Once again we arrived in Tenerife to a beautiful sunny 22 degrees. Being seasoned travellers now we jumped into a taxi and made our way back to Las Gallatas. It was really exciting to see Tulliana where we left her and in one piece. Everything looked fine apart from her being filthy and a small mark in a transom protector from the storms a week earlier. My biggest concern was how fusty she might be inside having left her for nearly a couple of months but in fairness everything was fine. The next few days were spent scrubbing, scrubbing and scrubbing some more until she looked like a new pin. Andy also managed to do a lot of the little repair jobs that were needed having bought with him the various equipment to fix her. The weather this time was lovely with lots of sunshine and little cloud.
We were booked into the marina until February 17th so had to get her ready to move as we were taking her to Las Palmas, Gran Canaria for the more major warranty work needed. The trip was about 80 miles and by Andy’s calculations it should take us about 10 to 12 hours to get there. We checked weather and sea conditions and everything looked good for our trip. We decided to leave at 6am to give us as much daylight as possible for the trip. It was still dark as we left Las Gallatas and we were looking forward to the trip……………………..oh dear!!!!
We had 25-30 knots of wind gusting to 38 knots all the way so were unable to put hardly any sail up so had to motor. We also had what Andy called ‘confused seas’ my only confusion was why we didn’t turn back and go another day!! We got absolutely soaked as we hadn’t put the helm cover on as we expecting OK weather. We arrived in Las Palmas 13 hours later a little battered and bruised, but generally just pleased to be there, warm up and mash a cup of tea (obviously followed by a beer chaser!). We were allowed to spend the night on the visitors dock and move Tulli next morning to her proper mooring. Las Palmas is a huge marina with over 1200 boats but we were put on a good pontoon and had plenty of space to ‘park’ her. Now the real work started trying to get hold of all the people we needed to do the various jobs. This was quite time consuming but in fairness we did manage to fit in a visit to the fiesta parade which was great where we seemed to see an awful lot of men who appeared to like dressing up as women – far too much for Andy’s liking??
Now although I do complain quite a lot about the amount of time Andy spends on his laptop on boat porn it has proved to pay dividends. Mike was a guy Andy had come across on a boat forum and he and his wife, Ann, were in Las Palmas on their own boat when we arrived. We met up and seemed to hit it off straight away. They have spent quite a lot of time in Las Palmas as their son had married a Canarian girl and lived and worked out there. We met up and they filled us in with lots of local knowledge. They also very kindly offered to borrow their son’s car and take us for a trip around the Island. We had a great day and found a beautiful marina in the south of the Island – Puerto Mogan - where both Andy and I agreed would be a great place to keep Tulli for a few months. We’ve made some enquiries and are waiting to hear. The other benefit of Puerto Mogan is the weather. Las Palmas was very windy and cloudy a lot of the time where as the weather in the south seems much better. I returned home on 26th Feb and Andy followed a week later having agreed and overseen a lot of the work needed on Tulliana. Another fantastic trip and generally very successful.
May
What do they say about the best laid plans? Well here we are back again at our lovely boat. At least the sun is shining now in Las Palmas and it is considerably warmer than last time we were here. I’m afraid to report that Puerto Mogan is now off the agenda as we weren’t able to book for more than two weeks which was no good to us. More of that later……..
We landed late at night so jumped in a taxi and headed for the marina as at 1am there were no buses running. Tulliana was fortunately still there and looking beautiful. She’d had quite a bit of warranty work carried out whilst we were away and then had been cleaned inside and out. We didn’t really appreciate how well this had been done until next morning and in the sun light she was gleaming. This was a real bonus as normally Andy makes me spend the first few days scrubbing and cleaning! There were still some things to finalise before we could go anywhere including the installation of some new auto pilot navigation software oh yes and I forgot to mention we had no Main Sail!!!! Our friend Charlie was joining us again for a week and was arriving later that night and we only had a limited ‘weather window’ to conclude all the work and set off on our trip so things were looking tight. Strangely enough it all seemed to come together and whilst the Main Sail was being refitted Angel turned up to tune in the new auto pilot. This involved taking the boat out and motoring around in circles for 45 minutes – most strange. Charlie and I felt quite dizzy by the end! Anyway all seemed to go well and we were set for our voyage.
Now as I mentioned earlier Puerto Mogan was off the agenda so a new plan had been formulated. ‘Captain Pugwash’ had been looking into various options and we had decided that Marina Rubicon in Lanzarote looked like a very good option. This meant that over our two weeks we could casually make our way via Fuerteventura and end up at Lanzarote. Andy checked the weather forecast for the next few days and generally as long as we avoided sailing on Friday everything looked OK. ‘Mr Organised’ had also provisioned the boat on line before we left the UK, so everything was delivered direct to the boat from the local supermarket – sorted!
We set off by 8am the following day. Now if you’ve been following our blog you’ll know that the last time we did this I had hoped to sunbath on the tramp for the majority of the journey. This of course was not the case and I nearly died of hyperthermia and sea sickness!! However I must report that our journey to Fuerteventura was far more pleasant and get this – we actually ‘Sailed’. This put a whole new slant on my view of owning a boat. It was really lovely. Now although we’d spent 45 minutes going around in circles to calibrate the auto pilot the minute we tried to engage it for the first time it threw a wobbly. This meant that someone had to steer all the way but in fairness it was good experience for me and with the weather and conditions so good I didn’t mind being on the helm at all. It took 8 hours to get to our first stop which was Morro Jable in Fuerteventura. This was a really lovely spot with a beautiful golden sandy beach which went on for 33km. We anchored quite a way from the beach on our first night as we weren’t sure about the tide. It was also very windy so although we slept OK it was quite bouncy. The following day we moved a lot nearer the beach and this seemed better. We’d just settled again when Andy said don’t look at the beach as there appeared to some bloke waving and he thought it was some form of beach police perhaps inferring we weren’t allowed to anchor so near to the beach. We all looked away and tried to ignore him. About half an hour later Andy reported that this same man was now swimming over so we thought we were going to be in trouble. We were all ready to defend our right to anchor there when this guy swam up and was actually one of the Marinaros from Las Gallatas in Tenerife. He was on holiday with his wife and had noticed Tulliana turn up the previous evening. We arranged to take the dingy ashore later and join him and his wife for a beer. He then dived back in and swam back to the beach. You were not allowed to use the motor on the dingy so we had to row. When I say ‘we’ I actually mean Andy and Charlie and I have to report it was like going out with Wallace and Gromit in charge of a dingy! We must of looked like right plonkers and when we did actually get to the beach I managed to stumble out and fall straight into the sea! Good job the sun was out and I was able to dry out quite quickly. Needless to say the beer went down well.
The following day we were setting off again for our next destination – Gran Tarajal Marina in Fuerteventura. This was only 5 hours away but this time the weather wasn’t with us and due to heavy winds we weren’t able to sail much and it was very choppy. When we arrived the Marina was quite small and there weren’t a lot of boats there. In fact there wasn’t a lot of anything there, but it was quite a quaint place and somewhere different to explore for a couple of days. When we left we were heading for a lovely lagoon 8 miles from Lanzarote. This was to appease my desire to swim as we still hadn’t had much opportunity. It was another very windy day and we hit another wind acceleration zone so didn’t get to sail much again. It was about 7 hours to our destination but when we got there although it looked very nice we all agreed it was far too windy to stay at anchor over night there and as our final destination was only 8 miles away we decided to carry on and go to Marina Rubicon in Lanzarote. It was still very windy and Andy did a great job of mooring Tulliana. Now we all had a chance to relax and chill. I’ve got to say I’m more than happy with this marina. It’s big enough for about 400 boats but I would say there was less than half that number when we arrived. It has a swimming pool and tennis courts for boat owners moored there and plenty of shops, bars and restaurants. There are beautiful beaches either side of the marina both within walking distance but also sailing distance and pretty anchorages if we decide to stay out over night. This will be great for all those friends and family itching to get out for a holiday. The facilities are excellent and everywhere is spotlessly clean. I can’t wait to get back out there which we will be doing in 3 weeks time and we’re very much looking forward to Janet, Graham, George, Sophie and Ben joining us for a week especially now Andy’s bought some new fishing rods and a BBQ for the back of the boat!
June
It’s come around again quite quick and we’re back off to Tulliana for a couple of weeks. We were flying from East Midlands again so drove to Derby and left the car at Mum’s. We were due to fly at 6pm but when we got to the airport we found out the flight was delayed two and a half hours, hay ho, more time in the bar! We landed around midnight and got a taxi to Marina Rubicon. Once again she looked lovely as Andy had arranged for her to be cleaned outside before we arrived. The main problem with the Canaries is that all the boats in the marina turn orange within a couple of days with all of the sand and dust flying around. It was much hotter this time and not as much wind as our last visit. The first couple of days were spent getting her up and running and provisioning as Janet, Graham and the kids weren’t arriving until 5 days after us. We also took her out on a ‘test trip’ over to Papagayo to check out anchoring locations for snorkelling etc. It was beautiful and not very far from the Marina so we thought it would be fine even to anchor there over night and maybe test out the new BBQ when the Boardies arrived! We also had new neighbours this visit, Alan and Bob on Banwen as they had been temporarily moved from another pontoon whilst maintenance was carried out. Andy decided that someone needed to go up the mast this time to replace some blocks for the flags. Guess who got the short straw! I was a bit nervous to tell the truth but put a brave face on and I’ve got say I really enjoyed the whole experience. Anyway, Alan and Bob were watching all this and were so impressed with my bravery they cracked open a bottle of champers to celebrate. They even had proper glasses on board which for us was a real treat as we’ve only got enormous plastic ones!! Well you can’t just have one drink with new found friends so the evening turned into a bit of a session.
The Sunsail training boats had also moved over to our pontoon this time and we watched one group leave and a new group arrive to start their training – quite entertaining, especially the dingy rowing!
We’d settled in quite well and also managed to spend a couple of hours over at the pool which we had to ourselves again, but the water was warmer this time. The Boardman family arrived on the 30th June and soon settled in to their new surroundings. The biggest problem was the weather had changed and we had incredible winds of 40 – 50 knots so we were unable to take the boat out for 3 days. It was looking as though we wouldn’t get to sail at all for the whole of their visit. Anyway we decide to risk it and go over to Papagayo just for the day. It was still breezy gusting up to 30 knots but we all managed to swim and soak up some sun and Andy managed a perfect mooring back at the Marina on our return without taking any lumps out of Tulliana. We went out again the following day and ventured over to Las Lobos and actual even managed to get some sail up for a while. Another nice day but this time the journey back was incredibly bumpy and Janet didn’t enjoy that experience at all but the kids and Graham loved it sat on the bow seats. The Boardies packed and got ready to leave on the 6th July. We said our goodbyes and waved them off then Andy and I went over to Bar One on the dingy for a ‘sundowner’. Whilst we were there Andy’s mobile rang and Graham informed him that they’d got to the check-in counter only to find that their flight wasn’t until the following day, so they turned around and came back for another day – most amusing to all except Graham!!
We said Goodbye again the following day and then Andy and I started to shut down Tulliana ready to leave again until our next visit. It was incredible that once they left the winds dropped and the whole place was like a mill pond again. We had a good flight back and actually landed 30 minutes earlier than scheduled.
September
Hi all, well here we are again back on ‘Tulli’ and this time for a whole month! Biggest problem this time was getting the dogs sorted as a month’s a long time to expect someone to house and baby sit. So Dillon went off to his Uncle Colin and Auntie Ang, Kyron and Lauren and Florence has gone into kennels back in Derbyshire. The flight was from Exeter this time, so not so far to travel. When we arrived, although a boat clean had been booked, she was absolutely filthy with brown dust all over her. Apart from that she was fine and just how we’d left her. We’d hired a car this time for a week so we were able to go off and provision for the pending visit of my Mum, brother and niece who were due to arrive four days after us. The boat clean was sorted and off we went and left him to it. Being where we are in the marina we see a lot of interesting things. Whilst minding our own business one afternoon we heard loud shouts from over at the fuel dock opposite. As we looked there was a French guy screaming at the top of his voice whilst he stood on the pontoon, as he watched his yacht and wife veering backwards at high speed towards a row of rather nice power boats. Somehow he had got off his boat leaving it in reverse? His wife, who was stood on the bow with a rope in her hands was obviously very flustered and didn’t appear to know what to do. More screams of advice were hurled across and she ran to the helm. She then put the boat into forward gear and although they just missed the power boats they were now going full speed ahead towards the fuel dock! Eventually he managed with all his strength to stop her before a collision. We’re not sure what happened then but I’m sure if I’d of been his wife I might of packed my bags there and then and left him!!
This was a very special trip for us this time as it was first time my Mum would visit the ‘bloody boat’ – (her words, not mine!) and also Andy’s parents would be visiting later in our stay. It would also be Mum’s 82nd birthday whilst here. The weather was very good around 28 degrees each day but still with a nice breeze and a very pleasant temperature at night. We had a good couple of days sorting Tulli out ready to take her out sailing. We collected Mum, Steve and Becky from the Airport with a beautifully homemade sign announcing ‘Tulliana Charters – WARD family’ and bought them back to the marina. Not sure what she was expecting but even Mum was quite impressed with how comfortable and well equipped Tulli is. We had the obligatory glass of Sangria and a home cooked spag bog and garlic bread.
The next day we took them exploring the local area by foot and then the following five days on the trot took Tulli out to a couple of different bays, even stopping overnight at anchor on one of the these occasions. The weather wasn’t brilliant for sailing and we only got all the sails up once, but at least they got to experience a little of what it’s like to actually sail her. It was also quite cloudy and we spent a lot of time trying to find blue skies so that Steve and Becky could work on their tans! There was also a very exciting dingy trip only from the boat over to Bar One so at least Mum got to experience all the joys of boat life. The week seemed to go well and flew by and everyone seemed to have a fantastic time. Once they’d left Andy and I got cracking with the washing and changing of beds etc and general cleaning of the boat again in preparation for our next visitors – Andy’s parents.
The weekend of Andy’s parent’s arrival also marked the start of the International Marlin Fishing Competition out of Marina Rubicon. Over 50 fishing boats arrived from all over to compete. We were very lucky to be invited out on the marina’s 75ft catamaran which was used as the starting boat on the second and last day of the competition. All the fishing boats were lined up outside the marina entrance and a rocket was let off to signify the start of the race. It was quite spectacular watching these large boats motor off as fast as they could, some reaching around 30 knots in what seemed about 10 seconds. Although the weather was disappointing on the first couple of days for Andy’s parents the rest of the week was good and we were able to sail and anchor at our favourite locations for a spot of swimming.
Another highlight of this particular trip was taking Tulli out for a sail with a group of guys from the Sunsail training school. We had fantastic weather conditions and two instructors and two of the guys who had completed their week’s course came along. All were very impressed with Tulli as they were monohull sailors who hadn’t experienced the delights of a catamaran before. I think we have converted them to the “Dark Side” of catamarans. We also went out with the same group for dinner that night and a good time was had by all.
The planning has already started for our next trip. We feel we have now done and dusted the Canaries so we are looking for a change of scenery. Andy would like to go straight over to the Caribbean from here but due to his current work commitments and the dogs we have decided to go back to Turkey. We chartered out of Gocek a few years ago now and loved it so that is the plan. From the Canaries Turkey is long way away so we have decided to at least get some of the way there this year. After quite a bit of research we have plumped for Morocco and Marina Smir which is in the Med and only 40 miles from Gibraltar. Getting from the Canaries to Gib is a real pain as the wind is normally directly on the nose together with a 2knot current at times. We have therefore decided to firstly sail from Lanzarote to Madeira where we will spend a couple of days, collect our friend Charlie and do the next leg to Gib. This should give us a much better wind angle and hopefully be able to sail most of the way at least, well that’s the plan for the end of November. This will also be my first experience of night sailing so I’m both excited and apprehensive at the same time! Will let you know how we go on – keep reading……………………….
November
Six months and 17 days after we had arrived in Lanzarote we were ready to leave. Marina Rubicon had been a good home for us and our various visitors but it was time to move on and experience pastures new. We had four days to prepare for the trip – getting Tulli ready and provisioning her as we were heading for Madeira. This was to be the first leg of our trip. This was the first time Andy and I had sailed her on our own and we were expecting a two day trip. This was also my first whole night sail and my first solo watch – how nervous was I! Everything indicated our voyage would be OK weather wise – you can imagine my surprise when it wasn’t – AGAIN!!!
As with all our good plans we set off and within two hours started to experience problems. Firstly we had decided to utilise the water maker on board to make fresh water for one of our tanks which we had purposely emptied before we left. I happened to notice a flashing light on the control panel whilst doing something in the galley. I alerted the Captain to this and he tried various ways of pressing buttons before deciding to go down into our cabin and lifting up our bed, where the water maker is, to investigate further. Good job as it happens as we really would have been sleeping on a water bed otherwise! One of the plastic seals had cracked and there was water everywhere. The next problem was our toilet. I was delighted when we had decided to go for an electric toilet in our cabin as it was just like using the loo at home. However this was not such a good move if things go wrong. The only saving grace was that it failed after a ‘number 1’ and not a ‘number 2’!!
Back to the actual journey. To say the trip was bumpy would be the understatement of the century, to say slow would be completely accurate! Why is it that everywhere we want the go the wind and waves are coming from that direction!! It was bad enough for both of us to not feel like eating and drinking for the whole two days. The watches worked well with 3 hours on and 3 hours off and on my watches I only had to disturb Andy a couple of times, once for 2 ships of about 750-950 feet long which I felt were getting a little too close for comfort and once for a couple of new Islands that had appeared on the radar which turned out to be weather fronts - but hay ho.
We were both pleased to arrive at Quinto de Lorde, Madeira after 48 hours at sea and two nights but it had been a real experience. I’m still waiting to experience some of this nice sailing which Andy keeps talking about…………!
The plan was to meet our friend Charlie in Madeira, re provision the boat and leave for Morocco. We checked the five day weather forecast and decided that it would be better to wait a couple of days to avoid some bad weather coming through. This did however give us the opportunity to hire a car for a couple of days and explore a little of Madeira. Andy went to pick up our car from the one café at our marina. It was the funniest sight imaginable. He turned up driving a really small bright yellow car which we then used to collect Charlie from the Airport. Charlie is a similar size and build to Andy. Seeing them both in the front of the ‘yellow peril’ was a sight for sore eyes as their shoulders actually touched in the middle.
Our trip around Madeira was a real treat, a really pretty island and the people very friendly. I would certainly recommend a visit.
We eventually set off on our next leg of the journey early on Sunday morning. The wind looked like it would be with us and we should be able to cover the 620 miles in around 4 to 5 days. We decided not to refuel as the skipper thought we had sufficient in both tanks for the trip. (Why do I listen to him??). This was Charlie’s first experience of long distance sailing although he had been out with us a few times before. The first two days were great for me and Andy as the wind was right behind us and were able to put the small spinnaker up for the first time since his delivery trip from South Africa. Charlie wasn’t as lucky as he hadn’t had the same chance to acclimatise and spent the first couple of days feeling a bit rough. The watches worked even better with the three of us with 3 hours on and 6 off at night and 4 hour watches during the day. We even enjoyed ‘happy hour’ each evening at 6pm when we were allowed one alcoholic drink and nibbles. The weather changed on the third day and we were back to bumping around and under engine as the only bit of wind was right on our nose and waves rolling in on us. Due to the amount of motoring we had to do we started to worry that we may not have enough fuel to get us there so there was no choice but to do the un-gentlemanly act of sailing into the wind!!The conditions over the next few days just got worse, 70 miles out from the Gibraltar Straights we ended up beating into 28 knots of wind and 4m waves. There is nothing more frustrating when you can see the entrance to the straights and it takes you a whole day to get there. We also realised that we wouldn’t have time to stop off at Gibraltar for a couple of days as we had originally intended.
Now, as you can imagine once into the routine of things there wasn’t a lot to do when you weren’t on watch so I took to baking! Yes, me – making bread! For those of you that know me you will find this particularly amusing! Apart from that the Sunsets and Sun rises were amazing and on one day we were followed by hundreds of dolphins for over an hour. These were the real highs and most of the time we hardly saw anything at all. We were even very excited one day as the two fishing rods went off almost exactly at the same time but by the time Andy and Charlie started to reel them in we had lost them both. The other disturbing thing about the night watch is the real blackness when the sun goes down and the moon doesn’t come out for another six hours and you’re sat all alone in the darkness – quite spooky at times.
We eventually arrived at Marina Smir, Morocco after 6 days, 2 hours and 34 minutes at sea. We were all pleased to be there and the Marina itself looked OK. We were boarded by immigration officials to check we weren’t smuggling people into the Country – quite funny really because a catamaran has hundreds of places you could hide someone but the only area he checked was under our bed quilts!
The whole journey had been real experience for me as I felt I had learnt a lot about the capabilities of the boat, the various equipment on board and now feel a lot more confident about sailing her. The highs were particularly high and likewise the lows were really low.
Just a little on Morocco before I sign off. Although the Marina is adequate there is absolutely nothing there apart from one restaurant and a tea shop. The people we met in the main were rude and nearly all corrupt and all looking for back handers. Everything turns out to be a minimum of 50 euro if you’re a westerner whether it’s a meal, a taxi ride, trashy gifts etc. Needless to say the next time we go out we will be moving Tulli elsewhere as I really don’t want to holiday there or even explore it further.